Babin Kuk offers stunning sea views and tranquility within easy reach of the Old Town
Dubrovnik needs no introduction, having attracted visitors from around the world long before its Game of Thrones ties. In 2019, the city welcomed almost 1.5 million overnight tourists against a population of just 41,000 people. That’s around 36 tourists per resident.
Though figures dropped during the pandemic, it has bounced back as a euro trip hotspot and weekend city break destination.
Its Old Town is arguably the most famous location, drawing visitors into its sparkling plazas, quaint narrow alleyways and up to the city walls from where orange roofs contrast against the sparkling Adriatic beyond. But there is so much more to discover than the Old Town alone, and on a recent trip, I discovered how you can combine the perfect history-filled city break with a relaxing beach holiday.
While many people choose to stay in or around the Old Town, if you hop on a local bus and head just 15 minutes, roughly 4km, away you’ll find yourself at Babin Kuk on the Lapad peninsula. The peninsula pokes out into the water, with stunning views of the Elaphite islands and sparkling tides.
Babin Kuk is just a short bus journey from Dubrovnik Old Town
Though the tip of the peninsula is the most touristy spot, with several hotels and a strip of bars and restaurants, there are few crowds here in comparison to those working their way through the streets of the Old Town.
From here, visitors can easily make their way into the Old Town for a day soaking up its history and culture and then retreat back to the tranquillity of Babin Kuk.
The peninsula is lined with quaint beaches and jetties which stretch out into the green-blue waters beyond. The Adriatic swimming spots in this area offer some of the clearest water I’ve ever seen, simply begging you to jump in for a swim. Just remember to pack your water shoes, as the beaches are largely rocky rather than sandy.
Lush, green forested areas provide shade between the beaches, and a scenic path winds its way around the entire peninsula, perfect for walks or runs (though during the summer these are best done in the morning, before the heat of the day sets in).
No visit to Dubrovnik is complete without a exploring the Old Town
Babin Kuk is considered a wealthy district due to the number of high-end hotels, stylish spas, and yacht clubs peppered throughout. During our stay, we happened upon Coral Beach Club, which prides itself on “exclusivity”.
Looking down from above, the Adriatic blue twinkles in the sunlight as revellers dive from the jetty into the sea. Groups of young holidaymakers gather on daybeds and sip champagne. Renting a bed for the day here was a little steep for us, starting at €50 per person.
However, you can also stop by for a drink which is a more cost-effective way to enjoy the view without paying too high a premium. We opted to visit at sunset a watch as the sun’s departure left the terrace area dripping in honey-hued light.
Flights to Dubrovnik
You can fly direct from the UK to Dubrovnik from multiple airports, with airlines including British Airways, TUI, easyJet and Jet2 all serving Dubrovnik Ruđer Bošković Airport.
Our flight from Gatwick took just two hours and 25 minutes, though flights from all London airports take an average of two hours and 45 minutes. Flights from Manchester take an average of three hours to reach Dubrovnik. From Newcastle, it takes three hours and from Edinburgh, it takes three hours and 15 minutes, on average.
What to do in Dubrovnik
You can’t visit Dubrovnik without spending at least one day exploring the Old Town. Start by climbing the city walls, built between the 13th and 17th centuries, where you can take in the postcard-worthy views of the winding streets below. Make sure to pack comfortable shoes and be prepared for a few sets of stairs, but the panoramic vistas are well worth every step.
Entry is ticketed and it’s best to get there as early as possible to beat the crowds. In the summer, expect it to be busy. There are a few small bars and cafés along the length of the walls.
The rest of the town can be explored from below, and we found ourselves just wandering the streets, with something new to discover at every turn. You’ll find plenty of bars and restaurants along the way, including authentic Croatian cuisine, Italian, vegetarian and sushi restaurants. Stop off at Holy Burek for the perfect midday snack (if you don’t know, burek is a flaky phyllo-pasty filled with cheese, meat, spinach and more). Or, cool off with Dubrovnik’s top-rated gelato from Peppino’s.
Buža Bar is a hole-in-the-wall bar located on the side of one of Dubrovnik’s surrounding cliffs. Though the bar was shut during our visit, it provided the perfect spot to watch as thrill-seekers braved jumping from the rocks into the twinkling aquamarine below.
Historically significant buildings are at every turn, and history buffs will enjoy stopping off at the city’s famous museums and galleries, including Pile Gate, the Rector’s Palace and the Franciscan Monastery and Museum, which is home to one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies.
At the heart of Lokrum Island is a salt water lake known as the Dead Sea
Those who thrive on contemporary art will enjoy the Museum of Modern Art, which shines a spotlight on Croatian artists.
Of course, given the surrounding water and islands, no trip to Dubrovnik is complete without hopping on a boat and heading out to explore. Whether you prefer to navigate via sailing boat or take things into your own hands on a kayak adventure, there are numerous crossings to the beautiful surrounding islands.
Lokrum Island is arguably one of the most famous surrounding Dubrovnik, accessible via ferry in just 15 minutes. The densely forested island is home to pristine beaches, a Botanical Garden, the ruins of an 11th-century Benedictine Monastery and a small salt lake known as “the Dead Sea”.
Where to Stay
Where you choose to stay in Dubrovnik is largely personal preference, with many rental apartments available in the Old Town offering an authentic experience. Both Booking.com and Airbnb have a great selection to choose from at a range of price points. You can also read reviews from previous guests to narrow down your choice.
But, if like us you want somewhere that you can pull open the curtains each day to stunning ocean vistas, Babin Kuk is an ideal spot.
We stayed at Valamar Argosy Hotel, a laid-back adult-friendly escape just a five-minute walk from Copacabana Beach. This is a destination to come to for complete relaxation, peppered between days soaking up the history of Dubrovnik’s Old Town or exploring the surrounding Croatian islands.
Valamar Argosy Hotel offers incredible views across the Adriatic
The hotel is approximately a 15-minute bus ride from the old town and Dubrovnik Airport is a 35-minute drive away.
Surrounded by lush green gardens and just a stone’s throw from a scattering of pebble beaches, Valamar Argosy is a four-storey hotel home to over 300 rooms.
Though it was first built in 1976, it has since been renovated to incorporate modern amenities and touches. There are two swimming pools to choose from, including a picturesque aquamarine infinity pool which gives the illusion of trickling over into the deep Adriatic blues. There is also a smaller paddling pool, plus plenty of sun loungers up for grabs.
The offers breakfast or half board packages, with a fantastic buffet restaurant and a poolside snack bar. You can read our full review of Valamar Argosy Hotel here.