Wednesday, December 18, 2024

Europe’s 15 greatest national parks

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Mountain-dimpled, valley-sliced, island-speckled, history-rich, big-beast-roamed… There are more than 400 national parks in Europe, each varying in scope, scale and character, each with its own X-factor. But they share a common goal: to conserve their specialness for future generations. 

And they’ve never been more popular. Events of recent years have spurred a new enthusiasm for getting outdoors, which doesn’t seem to be waning. Social media continues to bombard us with cute lake cabins and summit selfies. And the increasing cost of living is making nature – the ultimate freebie – even more appealing. In Finland, for example, visits to national parks have increased by 12 per cent compared with pre-pandemic levels. 

So, where to go? Great Britain has its own amazing 15, which protect both wonderful landscapes and traditional ways of life. But if you fancy venturing further afield, here are another 15 fine parks (listed in no particular order), where you can have scenically splendid, culturally fascinating, properly wild adventures.   




Peneda-Gerês is Portugal’s only national park

Visit instead of Yorkshire Dales National Park…

1. Peneda-Gerês, Portugal

Best for traditional culture

Peneda-Gerês is Portugal’s only national park. Here, in the country’s far north-west, four granite massifs meet; around them, valleys plunge, mixed forests flourish and wolves, ibex and wild garrano horses tramp. However, the park doesn’t just preserve nature. It’s a place of human history, crossed by shepherd’s tracks, pilgrim trails (São Bento da Porta Aberta, Portugal’s second-most-visited sanctuary, is here) and a Roman road still dotted with milestones. It’s excellent for walkers – especially in spring and autumn, when wildflowers and rich colours add extra zing. It’s also scattered with granite villages where traditional ways endure: head to Soajo to see its espigueiros (granaries) and time-warp Pitões das Júnias.

Nearest airport Porto. Casas das Leiras do Tempo (leirasdotempo.com), a cluster of old village houses, has B&B doubles from £110pn. Inntravel (01653 617001; inntravel.co.uk) offers a seven-night self-guided High Paths of Northern Portugal trip from £965pp including B&B accommodation, excluding flights. See natural.pt.



Durmitor, Montenegro


There are 18 glacial lakes in Durmitor, Montenegro


Credit: Getty

Visit instead of Cairngorms National Park…

2. Durmitor, Montenegro

Best for thrill-seeking

Home to 50-odd limestone peaks, 18 glacial lakes, countless caves and waterfalls, and the best bit of Europe’s longest gorge, Durmitor is as much fun park as national park. The whole place is Unesco listed and drop-dead gorgeous. Hiking (including up 2,523m Bobotov Kuk), horse-riding, cycling, paragliding and jeep tours are available; from December to March there’s (cheap) skiing too. The biggest thrill is rafting the Tara Canyon, where the turquoise river races between sheer rock walls up to 1,300m high. Rafting trips run from April to October, with rapids becoming less fierce through the season. Žabljak is Durmitor’s main hub. From here it’s a short walk to striking Black Lake.  

Nearest airports Dubrovnik and Podgorica. Hotel Soa (hotelsoa.com), en route to Black Lake, has B&B doubles from £53pn. Much Better Adventures (020 3966 7597; muchbetteradventures.com) offers a four-night Raft, Hike, Canyon Montenegro trip from £769pp including full-board accommodation, excluding flights. See durmitornp.com.



Thingvellir


Don’t miss Öxarárfoss, a spectacular waterfall


Credit: Getty

Visit instead of Dartmoor National Park…

3. Thingvellir, Iceland

Best for ancient history and otherworldly vibes

There are bigger, wilder, weirder national parks in Iceland. But Thingvellir, easily accessible from Reykjavík, is something special. This is where the Althing general assembly was established around 930 AD, and continued to meet until 1798 – nowhere better embodies Iceland’s history. It’s also tectonically mind-blowing: the Eurasian and North American plates are pulling apart here. Walk between them. Or head to Silfra where you can dive or snorkel through the fissures. Also, don’t miss Öxarárfoss, a spectacular waterfall just 15 minutes’ walk from Thingvellir’s visitor centre. The park is open year round. Midsummer brings long days (visit outside the hours of 10am to 5pm to avoid the crowds). September to April means a chance of seeing the northern lights.

Nearest airport Keflavík. Discover the World (01737 214250; discover-the-world.com) offers a five-day Golden Circle Self Drive from £625pp including B&B accommodation and car hire, excluding flights. Snorkelling Silfra tour from £125pp. See thingvellir.is.



Saxon Switzerland


Saxon Switzerland is Germany’s answer to the Peak District National Park

Visit instead of Peak District National Park…

4. Saxon Switzerland, Germany

Best for romantic rocks

The outlandish rock formations, table-top summits and thick forests of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains are Germany at its most picturesque. Indeed, vistas such as the Bastei (with its bridge and ruined castle), jagged Schrammsteine and striking Papstein inspired many great Romantic artists; the 72-mile Malerweg (Painters’ Way), which up-downs these peaks, will put you in the frame. The riverside Elbe Cycle Route is more genteel, as is ferry-hopping between comely towns such as Bad Schandau, Rathen and sustainability-focused Schmilka. Of course, nature doesn’t recognise politics; this landscape spills over the national border, and Saxon Switzerland is contiguous with Czechia’s Bohemian Switzerland National Park. It’s easy to combine both, using trains, buses and boats.

Nearest airport Dresden. Hotel zur Mühle (schmilka.de/hotel-zur-muehle) in Schmilka has B&B doubles from £160pn. Macs Adventure (0141 530 5452; macsadventure.com) offers an eight-day self-guided Saxon and Bohemian Switzerland trip from £995pp including B&B accommodation, excluding flights. See saechsische-schweiz.de



Piatra Craiului (King’s Rock)


Piatra Craiului (King’s Rock) is a landmark of the Romanian landscape


Credit: Getty

Visit instead of Exmoor National Park…

5. Piatra Craiului, Romania

Best for bears and wildlife spotting

More than a third of Europe’s bears, wolves and lynx roam Piatra Craiului (King’s Rock), the most jaw-dropping ridge in the Carpathian Mountains. Here, sharp peaks fall to a carved, karst landscape of deep gorges, dark caves and dense forests. Some 1,000 plant species can be found, along with 300 types of fungi, 270 types of butterfly, birds such as Ural owls and honey buzzard, plus chamois, wild boar, red deer, pine martens and red squirrels. And bears. Head into Zărnești Gorge, where bear tracks are usually seen; nearby bear hides offer a high chance of sightings. April to October are the best months. 

Other activities include hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing and horse-riding. Combine the park with a visit to Brasov’s medieval old town.

Nearest airports Brasov and Bucharest. Wildlife Worldwide (01962 302086; wildlifeworldwide.com) offers a four-day Bears in the Carpathian Mountains trip from £1,595pp including accommodation, meals and flights. See pcrai.ro.



Monfragüe


Monfragüe is Spain, but not as you know it


Credit: Credit: AGAMI Photo Agency / Alamy Stock Photo/AGAMI Photo Agency / Alamy Stock Photo

Visit instead of Norfolk Broads National Park…

6. Monfragüe, Spain

Best for birdwatching

This is Spain all right, but not as you know it. Far from the heaving costas, Monfragüe is an upswelling of mountains and holm oak forest at the confluence of the Tajo and Tiétar rivers. And it’s brilliant for birding. One of the world’s largest colonies of black vultures circles the park’s peaks, along with Egyptian vultures, imperial eagles and black storks. Prime lookouts include the clifftop of Peña Falcon, legend-laced Monfragüe Castle and the five bird-themed trails around Arrocampo Reservoir. The surrounding Extremaduran plains – part of Monfragüe Biosphere Reserve – are also avian hotspots. Great bustards and vibrant rollers should be spotted. Spring is the top choice; clear, mild winter months are good too.

Nearest airports Seville and Madrid. Posada de Grimaldo (laposadadegrimaldo.com) has B&B doubles from £48pn. Naturetrek (01962 733051; naturetrek.co.uk) offers an eight-day guided Go Slow in Extremadura trip from £1,895pp including full-board accommodation and flights. See turismomonfrague.es.



hohe tauern national park


Hohe Tauern is popular with hikers of all ages

Visit instead of South Downs National Park…

7. Hohe Tauern, Austria

Best for hiking

For soaring, sparkling, unadulterated mountain splendour on a grand scale, it has to be Hohe Tauern. This is the largest protected area in the Alps, a spread of mighty peaks, Europe’s highest waterfalls, creaking glaciers, wildlife-rich valleys, pristine forests, legendary trade routes and a spaghetti of hiking trails. This includes the 170-mile Hohe Tauern Panorama Trail, launched in 2022, which wends right through the park, from the foot of the Krimml Waterfalls to Grossarl, the “Valley of Alpine Pastures”. Do it all, or cherry-pick from its 17 stages. Or try the park’s section of the long-distance Alpe-Adria Trail, which runs below 3,798m Grossglockner, Austria’s highest point. Zell am See, Heiligenblut, Matrei and Bad Hofgastein make good bases. Come June to September for the best hiking weather.

Nearest airport Salzburg. The 900-year-old Weyerhof (weyerhof.at) in Bramberg has B&B doubles from £72pn. Book trips on the Panorama Trail at hohetauerntrail.at. See hohetauern.at.



sweden national park


During autumn and winter, it’s aurora time in Sweden


Credit: Getty

Visit instead of Brecon Beacons National Park…

8. Abisko, Sweden

Best for super skies

Sweden was the first country in Europe to establish national parks, in 1909, and it has some stunners. Including Abisko, an expanse of mountains, meadows and Scandinavia’s largest alpine lake, high above the Arctic Circle. During summer you can play 24/7 under the midnight sun. During autumn and winter, it’s aurora time. Thanks to its latitude, low light pollution and prevailing winds (which keep the clouds away), the Aurora Sky Station, on Abisko’s Mount Nuolja, is one of the world’s best places to see the northern lights. Winter chairlifts run up Nuolja mid-November to mid-April; but the best months are February and March, when the weather is more stable. The park is accessible by bus and train, and combines well with the ski resort of Björkliden and a cool night in the Icehotel.

Nearest airport Kiruna. Where The Wild Is (0117 450 7980; wherethewildis.co.uk) offers a five-day Icehotel & Abisko Adventure from £2,770pp including accommodation, meals and activities, excluding flights. See sverigesnationalparker.se.



Cévennes


Cévennes is a place to escape the crowds


Credit: Credit: Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo/Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo

Visit instead of Northumberland National Park…

9. Cévennes, France

Best for crowd-less-ness and farm culture

The Cévennes is one of France’s most untouched corners, a place to escape the crowds in this most-visited of countries. Spread across multiple departments in the south-east, on the edge of the Massif Central, it’s a landscape of mountains, plateaus, stone villages, dark skies, chestnut forests, wild horses and 3,000-year-old agro-pastoral traditions that have earned it Unesco designation. You might still see livestock being moved along ancient drailles (drove roads). There’s great hiking (not least along the Stevenson’s Path, following the author’s Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes), plus canoeing, cycling, caving and climbing. Head out mushroom foraging or get an overview at the Mount Aigoual Observatory. There are many lovely villages too; start in hubs such as Florac and Pont-de-Montvert-Sud-Mont-Lozère.

Nearest airports Nîmes and Montpellier. Gîtes de France (gites-de-france.com) offers many properties in the Cévennes; for example, L’Auberge, a characterful home near Alés that sleeps three, costs from £290pw. See cevennes-tourisme.fr.



Maddalena Islands


The natural colours on display on the Maddalena Islands are ravishing

Visit instead of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park…

10. Maddalena Archipelago, Italy

Best for swimming and island-hopping

The ravishing, grey-pink granite Maddalena Islands are all that remains above water of the mountains that once connected Sardinia and Corsica. Now, this cluster of 62 isles and islets off Sardinia’s north-east coast, 20 minutes by ferry from the port of Palau, is protected within a national park. And it’s dazzling, with translucent waters, world-class beaches (including Spiaggia Rosa, the Pink Beach), bizarre rock formations, charming towns and plenty of tasty trattorias. The clear, warm, shallow water and multitude of bays and inlets makes it wonderful for canoeing, sailing, diving and swimming; whales, dolphins and turtles like to swim here too. Come June to October for warmer seas.

Nearest airport Olbia. Residenza Mordini (residenzamordini.com) on Isola Maddalena has B&B doubles from £78pn. Swimtrek (01273 739713; swimtrek.com) offers six-night Emerald Coast trips from £1,310pp including B&B accommodation, excluding flights. See lamaddalenapark.it.



Triglav, Slovenia


Lake Bohinj is far less touristy than Lake Bled


Credit: Getty

Visit instead of Snowdonia National Park…

11. Triglav, Slovenia

Best for active patriotism

Triglav National Park covers four per cent of Slovenia, with 2,864m Mount Triglav at its heart – a peak so embedded in Slovenian culture that it’s on the national flag. It’s a two-day hike and via ferrata to get to the summit, considered by locals to be a rite of passage. But the park is a playground for all comers. Not only can you pick up myriad hiking trails, you could swim and boat around beautiful Lake Bohinj (far less touristy than Lake Bled), raft the emerald-hued Soča River, mountain-bike the long-distance Juliana Bike trail, or go foraging, paragliding or cross-country skiing. June to October is best for outdoor adventure, or come for snow-fun in January to March.

Nearest airport Ljubljana. Boutique hotel Majer’ca (majerca.si), by Lake Bohinj, has B&B doubles from £128pn. KE Adventure (01768 773966; keadventure.com) offers an eight-day Across the Julian Alps to Triglav trip from £1,595pp including accommodation, most meals and flights. See tnp.si.



Lofoten


Add Lofoten to your bucket list

Visit instead of Lake District National Park…

12. Lofotodden, Norway

Best for bucket-list beauty

Lofoten is on every Norwegian’s bucket list, never mind the rest of the world. On this Arctic Circle archipelago, white-sand coves lapped by turquoise waves lie between mountains that rise vertically from the sea; shores are dotted with Stone Age sites, rorbu (fishermen’s cabins) and Viking history. It’s a photographer’s dream. In 2018, a chunk of Moskenesøya island, at the end of the archipelago, was designated Lofotodden National Park. The visitor centre is in Reine, where you can pick up tips on hiking, wild camping, kayaking, rock art and more. Avoid busy June to mid-August; visit from late-April to early-May, when snow should still adorn the mountain tops, or quiet mid-September to late-October. November to March offers a different take on a northern lights break.

Nearest airport Bodø. Best Served Scandinavia (020 7838 5956; best-served.co.uk) offers a seven-day self-drive Bodø and the Lofoten Islands trip from £2,070pp including accommodation, some meals, car hire and flights. See lofotoddennp.com.



Lake Pielinen


Views of Lake Pielinen are the best in Finland


Credit: Getty

Visit instead of Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park…

13. Koli, Finland

Best for autumn colours

The Finns call it ruska, the fleeting season, for a few weeks in September and October, when nature puts on a final flourish before winter. Koli National Park, a little pocket of lakes, caves, meadows and forested hills in North Karelia, is great for deciduous trees and abundant berries. It’s also great for feeling Finnish: the view from Ukko-Koli Hill to Lake Pielinen is the most iconic of Finland’s 27 official national landscapes, and has inspired artists for years. Possible activities include hiking, fishing, horse-riding and birdwatching as well as skiing and snowshoeing. For outdoor art lovers there’s also Koli Sculpture Park. Consider combining it with the woodlands of nearby Patvinsuo and Petkeljärvi National Parks, also wonderful for foraging hikes amid autumn colours.

Nearest airport Helsinki. Regent (01174 539892; regent-holidays.co.uk) offers a seven-day Best of North Karelia Fly-Drive from £1,945pp including B&B accommodation, some meals, car hire and flights. See nationalparks.fi/kolinp.



Białowieża, Poland


Białowieża, Poland, is Unesco-listed


Credit: Boguslaw Chyla/Boguslaw Chyla / 500px

Visit instead of New Forest National Park…

14. Białowieża, Poland

Best for winter wildlife

You can visit this swathe of Unesco-listed forest in north-east Poland at any time of year. Its mix of old-growth trees, plants, fungi and lichen is the last remaining primeval forest in lowland Europe, and some of the most atmospheric. But winter is particularly great for mammal-watching. Białowieża is home to many creatures, including red and roe deer, wild boar, pine marten, wolves, lynx and European bison, the largest land mammal on the continent. In winter the forest looks magical in the snow, some of the vegetation has cleared and it’s easier to follow their tracks. The main hub is Białowieża village. The core area of the park is strictly protected and can only be entered with a guide. 

Nearest airport Warsaw. Wild Poland (0048 501 797251; wildpoland.com) offers four-day Bison Safari & Wolf tracking trips from £774pp including accommodation and meals, excluding flights. See bpn.com.pl.



Thy, Denmark


Thy was Denmark’s first national park


Credit: Fotograf Mette Johnsen/Mette Johnsen

Visit instead of North York Moors National Park…

15. Thy, Denmark

Best for surfing and cycling

Denmark’s first national park, on Jutland’s west coast, is a landscape shaped by the mighty North Sea. Waves crash and swell (there’s a reason this area’s called “Cold Hawaii”), blonde beaches drift into rolling dunes and nature-rich heath, lakes pepper the hinterland, pretty villages dot the shore. It’s great for cycling, too. The West Coast Cycle Route, which follows Danish National Cycle Route 1, begins at Agger ferry port and continues north through the park for more than 60 miles, via the cliffs at Bulbjerg. Or try the 27-mile Animal Paradise route, which runs via lakes renowned for otters and cranes. Each season has its charm. Cyclists will prefer spring and summer. Winter is best for surf, and for feeling the wildness of nature – perhaps from inside a 19th-century lighthouse.

Nearest airport Aalborg. Self-catering apartments at Hanstholm Lighthouse (hanstholm fyr.dk) from £254 for two nights. Bikewithus (bikewithus.dk) offers four-day Thy bike tours from £250pp including B&B accommodation, excluding flights. See nationalparkthy.dk.

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