Cava is not, though, the only wine of Catalonia. Far more famous in Spain – though relatively unknown in the UK – is El Priorat region. Its wine is the only DOQ (Denominació d’Origen Qualificada) in the country other than Rioja. This is a much wilder region than Penedès, its steep black mountains topped with fortress-like villages, their sides terraced with olive groves and vineyards.
There is a sense of drama in the mountains here and their history. The natural fastness of the village of Siurana was the last stronghold of the Moors in Catalonia. Legend has it that Abdelazaia, the Moorish Queen, decided to avoid falling into the hands of the Christians by riding her horse (pure white, of course) over the cliff where the animal stalled, terrified, leaving an imprint of his horseshoe on the rock.
With its jaw-dropping views, stone houses and cobbled streets filled with roses, it’s hardly surprising that Siurana was recently invited to join the list of Spain’s most beautiful villages. They declined, not being too keen on the idea of all those pesky tourists hearing about it. (Sorry, Siurana.)