I went off the beaten track in Greece and found something I never expected

As we finally reached the viewpoint of the Vikos Gorge, it was time for a much-deserved rest and ice cream.

With a twinkle in his eye, our guide, Alex, declared: ‘When the West was discovering desserts, we in Greece were already diabetic.’

For many Brits, Greece has become the most popular way of accessing the Mediterranean pill: the slow, food-centred, sun basked lifestyle that feels like a necessary escape from the greyness of our home.

Island tourism has become such an important part of the Greek economy, with Santorini and Mykonos attracting a combined four million tourists every year. You’d be forgiven for thinking another Greece even exists.

Which is why a trip to Zagori, in the north west of the country, appealed to me so much. I needed to see another Greece. Something to challenge the island-hoping, party-focused isles that social media had shown me.

Four hours drive from Thessaloniki airport into the heart of the Greek mountains, that actually make up the vast majority of the country, we began to leave the commercialised Greece behind.

Snow-capped mountaintops and miles upon miles of uninhabited forest wrapped all around the road. We passed into the mountainous region of Zagori (which translates in Slavic to ‘the place beyond the mountains’) before arriving in the tranquil village of Aristi.

At Aristi Mountain Resort, our home for the next four days, the residencies are beautifully built in traditional Zagori stone from the mountain itself, with the inside a cosy Alpine chalet.

Cliffs that reach up into the sky surround the resort, and in the early morning waves of cloud cover the village beneath.

When we arrived, my friend and I walked out onto our balcony and gazed at the view in stunned silence. ‘I don’t remember ever experiencing quietness like this before’, my friend said. 

That is what you have to savour and appreciate about this Greece. it’s several mountain ranges away from a Santorini beach party, but also detached from the grand temples of Athens. Zagori lives within and guards its own history, one of mountain-dwellers and serenity. 

Over 2,500 years ago Zagori was part of the ancient kingdom of Molossoi (with ruins from this period found dotted around the region – particularly close to the village of Vitsa), but there is archaeological evidence of inhabitants living there from as far back as the Ice Age.

There is a network of stone-arched bridges and staircases in every settlement, with modern accommodations built in a similar style, seemingly carved into the mountains. Staying here brings with it a sense of history – and adventure.

What to do in Zagori

There’s exhilarating rafting along the Voidomatis river which we booked with the local company Trekking Hellas for €40 per person. Expect the magnificent natural beauty of white cliffs and drooping trees guiding your way along the river bank.

You can (and absolutely should) hike along the Vikos Gorge. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a casual stroller, there’s something for everyone here, but all routes come with phenomenal views.

We hiked from the village of Papingo, down to the Voidomatis Springs and back up the gorge to Vikos village which is a short hike (three hours) and moderately challenging. Everything is quite clearly marked but if you want a guide, Trekking Hellas provide them for a variety of prices.

Our guide Alex told us the Vikos Gorge it is known as the ‘Grand Canyon of Europe’ and it’s easy to see why. When something you’re gazing at stretches so high above you that you can’t even compute its height, ‘grand’ becomes an appropriate description. 

At many points Vikos reaches 1,350m in depth, just a couple hundred metres short of the Grand Canyon’s deepest point, but instead of Arizona’s dust and rock you get the rich greenery of central Europe, with monasteries built by the waterfront among streams of glistening blue. 

The villages dotted around the region are all worth visiting, each with their own unique character – though all built with the same distinctive white stone.

Quaint cafes serve cakes which will redefine your understanding of sweetness (try the ‘goat cheese cheesecake at Astraka snack bar in Papingo) and cobbled streets wind their way up every hilltop.

Back at the hotel, Aristi Mountain Resort offers it’s own form of R&R. The spa includes a swimming pool, jacuzzi, a steam room and a massage room offering a selection of treatments from talented massage therapists.

What to eat in Zagori

No stay in Zagori would be complete without experiencing the culinary excellence of the region’s traditional food, and Salvia restaurant (Aristi’s main gourmet dining location) offers an outstanding variety of Greek dishes.

Some of them you might have heard of (such as the deliciously rich and comforting Giouvetsi – a veal and orzo stew) and others you would not have, including the creamy Trahanas and the Soutzoukakia – a meaty dish in an extraordinarily flavourful tomato and cumin sauce.

A real delightful visit – available to all hotel guests – was visiting the local farm where many of the ingredients used at Salvia’s are grown.

One of the real food highlights however is the ‘Mushroom restaurant’, Kanela & Garyfallo in the picturesque village of Vitsa. The restaurant includes (alongside a more traditional menu) a full page of dishes made from locally grown mushrooms – and yes, that includes dessert too.

The head chef, Vassilis Katsoupas, is a charismatic man who was bursting with pride explaining to us how each dish uses a different mushroom, and how the mix of different spices helps to bring out each mushroom’s unique tastes. 

I can thoroughly recommend tucking into the brilliant mushroom omelette and the chestnut soup which were both bursting with earthy flavours, and fight whatever prejudices you might hold to try the caramelised chanterelles dessert – there’s nothing earthy about this, and you will find yourself craving it for days afterwards.

There are few places I’ve visited as unique and calming as Zagori, and Aristi is the perfect location to base yourself when exploring this beautiful region.

The hotel and the village itself have harnessed the stunning majesty and silence of the gorge, creating a destination that gives you everything a holiday is meant to have: calm, adventure and exceptional food.

It’s not the Greece of mythology (there are no pillars or temples in sight), and it’s not a party location (as night hits, looking over the village you won’t hear a pin drop). But it’s Zagori: the quiet, magical realm beyond the mountains. 

As we sat with our ice cream, admiring the beautiful sight of the Vikos Gorge that we had just climbed, we discussed with Alex the history of the Zagori, which he told us remained culturally unaltered, despite many different people who had passed through it.

As Alex, who regularly races along the four-hour trail we had just trekked picked up his bag ready to leave, he stopped for a moment to gaze at the canyon below.

He turned back towards us with that twinkle in his eye which we had already grown so accustomed to.

‘People have come and gone here but somehow, life here remains slow,’ he says. ‘It remains peaceful. It’s why I love it here.’

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