I’ve never been one to spend long summer days meandering through vineyards like a wine-infused nymph.
Indeed, despite my lack of sommelier knowledge, wine is something I’ve grown to appreciate.
Wine holidays and vineyard tours have seen a resurgence in popularity recently, with tourists flocking to destinations such as the Loire Valley, Provence, and Tuscany. However, I discovered a hidden gem that perfectly blends sophistication and rustic charm in the most unexpected of places – and it’s a must-visit, reports the Liverpool Echo.
A good friend of mine relocated to Vienna last year, making Austria his new home after several years in the UK.
The capital city is often linked with its love for Christmas markets, a commitment that London could only dream of matching.
However, when I revisited Vienna at the end of June, the change in seasons meant swapping cosy layers and gluhwein for a Duke of Edinburgh-style hike to the city’s heurigers. A heuriger can best be described as a ‘wine tavern’, serving homegrown wine and a buffet of local food, all enjoyed from wooden outdoor seating with views over the city from the Nussberg hills.
Trusting my friend and reliable local guide, we left the tram stop at Beethoven Park and ventured off the beaten path into the steep hills blanketed with lush vines. Thankfully, our first stop, Buschenschank Windischbauer, was not too far away, saving me from revealing just how unfit I am. The wine, of course, would assist.
Nestled amidst the hills, a charming wooden shack stood surrounded by endless rows of vines. They boast both a natural and traditional vineyard, we chose to settle at the latter, with a small selection of their wines available.
The menus are inscribed on a petite chalkboard, reflecting the current offerings. A bottle of Windischbauer (pinot blanc) will set you back just over ten euros, which feels like an absolute bargain. The undulating hills and sweeping views of Vienna were something I never linked with the city, but it just goes to show it’s a destination for all seasons. And the wine? It was absolutely delightful.
Austria isn’t typically associated with popular wine exports, but it certainly holds its own. Buschenschank Windischbauer is sufficiently distanced from the city that tranquillity prevails, yet you can savour the cosmopolitan city and countryside simultaneously.
The absence of crowds exploring the hills doesn’t detract from the buzz, it simply provides space to breathe. Heurigers also offer a small assortment of local delicacies, many of which come with ‘spreads’, flavoured cream cheeses (Liptauer). Imagine Austrian charcuterie boards laden with meats, cheeses and freshly baked bread.
In contrast, Wieninger am Nussberg seemed to be much more vibrant. Slightly higher than our first stop, we were treated to an even more extensive view of Vienna and its surroundings.
By the time mid-afternoon rolled around, I was already feeling the heat, so we sought refuge in the shade near the tavern. However, there were plenty of spots akin to a beer garden for those who wanted to soak up the sun. On this occasion, we chose a bottle of Wiener Gruner Veltliner, a dry and crisp wine that tantalised our taste buds with its sweet undertones.
Wieninger am Nussberg had a much wider selection of wines, catering to all palates. But for someone like me, who doesn’t have the most refined nose, the Wiener Gruner Veltliner is a reliable Austrian classic. If you’re looking to get a real taste of Viennese wines, this is an excellent starting point.
As someone who prides themselves on their love of food, the lack of descriptions on the menu felt like a thrilling leap into the unknown. I had no idea what to expect, and I was excited about it. I wanted to be surprised by whatever dish was placed before me.
My friend and I decided to share a Winzerplatte (charcuterie board) between us. It consisted of Tyrolean-style bread with ‘bacon’ and horseradish, four unspecified but delicious cheeses, paprika-infused Liptauer, pumpkin seeds, a small dark baguette (Rebstockl by Muller Gartner), and a traditional potato salad – but not as we know it.
It was simplicity at its finest, proving that you only need a handful of quality ingredients to create a feast fit for royalty.
Chatting over chilled wine encapsulates the essence of summer, but it also served as a reminder of how our lives have transformed after nearly a decade of friendship. Our journey has taken us from the UK’s south coast to the dazzling lights of London and Vienna, trading snakebites for (somewhat) civilised vineyard escapades.
Just when I thought my day couldn’t possibly improve, we sauntered off to our final stop – Mayer am Nussberg – boasting views so breath-taking that I was reluctant to leave. I had discovered a haven up in the mountains.
The slopes were adorned with makeshift benches crafted from crates, with a sandbox for children conveniently placed in the centre. However, we chose one of the many romantic deck chairs offering a panoramic view of the mountains. It was like being at the seaside but at a higher altitude.
The buschenschank resembled a colossal shed, complete with a functioning rustic kitchen dishing out platters, breads, and sweet delicacies. I’ve never experienced tranquillity quite like sitting overlooking the winding hills, sipping glasses of Gruner Veltliner. Up there, I could forget about the world around me because nothing else seemed significant.
Equipped with The Nussberg Classic board (smoked Emmerberger raw ham, farmer’s salami, sliced bacon, farmer’s cheese, pepperoni, farmer’s bread and homemade crispy mustard) and the Mayer’s Spread Board (cream cheese herbs, legendary Liptauer, lard), we feasted like Greek Olympians. Each sip and bite introduced a new flavour combination; a salty tang from the lard paired with sharp cheese, or fresh herb spread on hearty bread.
I’ve yet to visit the renowned wine valleys of France, Italy or Spain, but I’m in no rush. The unpretentious charm of Vienna’s heurigers provides a rich experience without the ostentation often associated with their more famous counterparts.
If you’re seeking an off-the-grid experience, devoid of throngs of tourists, and fancy a delicious glass of wine with your closest mate, then Vienna should be on your radar. Its wine taverns, regardless of their size, guarantee a memorable time.