Impressive. Inspiring. And very Italian.
The usual adjectives apply for Florence’s four-day trade show Pitti Uomo – the 106th edition of the global menswear marketplace.
The bright sunshine and high temperatures in Tuscany always lift the spirits, and this season was no different as Pitti Uomo continues, like the rest of the industry, to readjust itself to the realities of the post-Covid, online-driven world.
In a telling indication of the post-Brexit world, the 50-plus French exhibitors outnumbered the 49 British exhibitors in the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) group to be the number one non-Italian presence.
This year’s event, which had the slogan Pitti Lemon and a zesty yellow colour scheme, presented about 790 brands, 56% of which were Italian. This was around 35 fewer than in June 2023, but construction work since the spring has limited space at the Fortezza da Basso complex.
The visitor profile is also changing as buyers interested in major brands concentrate their efforts in the showrooms of Milan, but others find their way to Florence for the first time.
John Lambert, owner of the County Clothes mini-chain in south-east England, was one such debutant. He said: “It’s full of lovely product, very colourful and very inspiring. I’ve been here two days but for January [2025] I’ll set aside three. Obviously with Italian clothes you have to be careful because they tend to have narrower fits, but I have bought shirts, leathers and suedes, and belts this time.”
Lambert was one of 16 members of the IMC buying group of well-established mainstream menswear independents attending Pitti. Gary Culver, owner of Frederick L Mabb in Dorchester, has been visiting Pitti for many years, mainly for research, but noted that it is now more relevant for buying for IMC members.
“Since Covid most of the IMC members have been trading up, while the price levels at Pitti have come down slightly as many of the big Italian brands now show only in Milan showrooms. The result is the gap between the Italian market and ours has narrowed, meaning the show is much more interesting.”
Buyers with a more fashion-forward attitude also noted a shift in Pitti’s appeal and exhibitor list. Paul Platt, owner of the Pockets premium menswear stores in Shrewsbury, Newcastle-under-Lyme, Hanley and Nantwich, said: “I have been coming here since I was 16 and I’m now 54. I have seen how it’s changed. It’s still worth coming to but they don’t have all the big names they used to, and they are letting in a bit of womenswear, some kidswear and Chinese exhibitors. I hope they can maintain their standards.”
Another long-time visitor is Keith McNichol, owner of directional Richmond Classics in Bournemouth, who invariably finds an interesting collection or two each season. “It used to be that there was nothing for me in the large main pavilion, which was always the most classic part of the show, but I’m finding more stuff this season than in the various ‘younger’ or ‘sportier’ areas of Pitti. I’ve found a really good unbranded knitwear supplier with great margins this season.”
While it was generally acknowledged that the UK premium menswear market is the most depressed at present, Italy and Germany are among the European countries where bad weather and economic pressures have made business tough.
“The show reflects the situation the market is in,” remarked Guy Hudson, owner of Lynx in Harrogate, another Pitti veteran. “The stands aren’t so big, there’s a lot less entertaining, free drinks and so on, but it’s still the best sartorial show in Europe. It’s very easy to find excuses not to come, but it never fails to be an inspiring show: Of course, I am being cautious about my budgets for spring 25 after the seasons we’ve suffered. I have written some orders here but I’m not certain I’ll confirm them all.”
Paul Smith returned to Pitti Uomo to showcase his spring/summer 25 collection
Ryan Squibb, UK and Ireland sales director for Swedish shirt specialist Eton, which was back at Pitti for the first time in five years, commented: “It’s been a tough time in the UK and buyers seems to be inclined to be cautious and to stick to brands they know will perform.”
Among a perhaps surprisingly strong showing of independents, buyers from End, Harvey Nichols London, House of Fraser and Next were among the big UK names seen in the aisles. Inevitably, given the industry’s ongoing overstock issues, TK Maxx was well represented.
Leading international retailers walking the show included Saks Fifth Avenue, Galeries Lafayette (from Paris, UAE and Beijing), Hankyu, United Arrows, Beams, Ships, Lane Crawford and Harvey Nichols Qatar.
Speaking for British exhibitors at Pitti, Paul Alger, director of international affairs at UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT), said: “There’s always a positive feel-good factor at Pitti Uomo. The question is whether that translates into orders after the show. It didn’t in January.”
“It feels slightly like 2008 again,” he added, alluding to tough trading conditions at home and in many export markets, especially Japan, where the yen has lost 30% of its value in the past two years.
Exhibitors noticed Korean and Japanese buyers did not appear until the latter part of the fair as companies have cut back on international travel and sent smaller teams.
Raffaello Napoleone, Pitti CEO since 1992, was feeling pragmatic about what was the seventh edition since the pandemic closed the event in June 2020 and January 2021: “The menswear industry has been undergoing deep changes, including dealing with the consumers’ different attitude to shopping, with many choosing to buy second-hand clothes, with economic pressures, geopolitical disasters, the loss of department stores and independents, rising shipping costs, more selling online.
“As a fair we will continue to evolve. We are smaller than we were in the past, but construction work here at the Fortezza means we will be without 25% of our usual space for two to three years at least.
“So, we will have to be even more selective about who we invite to exhibit. Also we will continue to invest in technology, such as artificial intelligence, to benefit exhibitors and visitors. Despite the market situation, we are not applying the brake. We still intend to accelerate.”
Among the events outside the main complex, Paul Smith talked select press through a few highlights of his spring/summer 25 collection, which, as ever, was strong on his signature tailoring, this time in pastel colourways with oversized jackets and high-waist trousers shown with slouchy trench coats. A collaboration with Lee for a reworked chore jacket enlivened his denim offer.
The irrepressible designer, who will be 78 on 5 July, reminded the audience he was one of the first guest designers to be invited to Pitti as long ago as 1993. The intimate gathering this week was his first appearance in Florence since 2017. French designer Marine Serre, this season’s guest big name, showed her SS25 collection of men’s and womenswear.
In conclusion, despite being smaller than in its pre-Covid days, Pitti Uomo is steadily on the road to recovery and remains the pre-eminent international meeting place for the premium menswear sector.
Robert Tateossian, owner UK-based jewellery brand Tateossian, who was showing at his 34th Pitti show, remarked: “It’s no longer the buying show it was, but it is still very important as a forum for showing, and a social event on a global basis where you can meet face to face the people you sell to. And that’s important.”
In 2025 Pitti Uomo will be held on 14-17 January and 10-13 June.