A classic European summer holiday features endless sunny days, heart-stoppingly picturesque scenery and a glorious upbeat vibe. On a trip to Switzerland last year, I ticked off these boxes and got a taste of how locals enjoy summer: with plenty of time in and around water. It was my fourth visit to the country and I wasn’t expecting to be surprised but I’d thought wrong.
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St Gallen – a hidden corner of Switzerland
Having landed in Zurich just as the sun was coming up, a short train ride later, I arrived in St Gallen, once renowned for its textiles and lace, and now, for its stunning Abbey precinct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In its traffic-free Old Town, cobblestone lanes lined with medieval homes lead to the towering cathedral. Of the many sites that are part of the monastic complex, the most incredible is the Abbey Library established in the 8th century BCE with its collection of over 160,000 books. From rare bible editions, legal documents, books on architecture and astronomy to medicine, an Egyptian coffin and globes, there’s a lot to take in but that’s if you can take your eyes away from the grandeur. With an elaborate ceiling adorned with stucco and frescoes, burnished wood-panelled bookshelves and a parquet floor made of 30 kinds of wood, the library is a Baroque rococo masterpiece.
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A short walk away is the salmon-coloured Textile Museum of St Gallen. Palazzo Rosso is the best place to delve into the textile trade that put St Gallen on the world map. If Swiss chocolates and watches are coveted the world over today, in the 1900s, exports of embroidery and lace were most sought after. With exhibits that chronicle the meteoric rise and eventual decline of the industry, the museum captures the wonderful textile legacy of the city.
Textiles are deeply interwoven with the city’s history and this shows up in unexpected corners. I bed down at the stylish Einstein Hotel, a former embroidery factory. As a nod to its past, the hotel features exquisite silk curtains and lace throws. It also boasts of an enviable art collection that’s said to rival that of the local art museum.
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Switzerland in summer promises water-based adventure
On a dreamy June morning with a group of colleagues, I head up on the Mühleggbahn funicular to the town’s enchanting recreational area and find another unlikely link to the textile trade. Drei Weieren, a collection of five ponds, was created to supply St Gallen with water required for bleaching fabric. Three of the remaining four ponds have now been converted into public swimming pools. When we got there, the ponds set deep within thickly wooded grounds were abuzz with schoolchildren taking swimming lessons.
I am not sure if it was the setting or the mood but I couldn’t wait to get right in. Fear gnawed away at my initial enthusiasm as I neared the bottle-green pond, the edges marked by tall grass crowded with small spiders. I don’t know what changed but eventually, I took the plunge. As I look back, the thrill of wild swimming is as much about the surroundings as it is about pushing your boundaries, and I am so glad I didn’t let self-doubt get the better of me.
Lake Constance – endless options, endless fun
I found myself again on the water’s surface on a paddle board on the mirror-like bed of Lake Constance or Bodensee in German. Spanning over 64 km, the lake sits at the tripoint of Switzerland, Germany and Austria. Come summer, day trippers and holidaymakers take to its shores to enjoy water-based activities and sublime views.
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We met the lake at the harbour town of Rorschach, perched on the southernmost end. Dario Aemisegger, our SUP coach, took us through the basics before leading us out onto the water. Stand-up paddle boarding, as I learnt that day, looks deceptively simple but requires immense balance and core strength. Those watching might not have registered my fleeting 10-second vertical act, but for me, the moment will be etched in my memory forever along with Bodensee’s desktop wallpaper good looks.
Lucerne, Switzerland’s best summer destination
The thing about Switzerland is there’s never anything like too many spell-binding views. Travelling across the country on the incredibly efficient rail network lets you take it all in with comfort and style. Onboard the Voralpen Express, we left St Gallen and arrived in Lucerne two hours and 16 minutes later, passing bucolic villages, shimmering lakes and iridescent green hills.
Embraced by the mighty Alps and strung around the curvaceous banks of Lake Lucerne, the city of Lucerne was destined to be magnificent even before the first medieval houses and charming wooden bridges were built here. The legend goes that the early settlers saw an angel holding a lamp at the same spot night after night, and taking this as a divine sign, built a chapel there. Lucerne takes its name from the Latin word Lucerna, meaning ‘oil lamp’. Lucerne became a popular tourist destination in the early 20th century, attracting visitors from all across Europe. Even Queen Victoria was recommended a sojourn here while she was grieving the passing of her husband, Albert.
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Future forward
In Lucerne, the lake is at the centre of all life. On a site visit to the Lake Lucerne Navigation Company, Pius Barmet, Director of Marketing and Sales, highlights the features of the first carbon-neutral boat on Lake Lucerne developed by the company – the MS Diamant. As we troop through the luxurious interiors of the vessel, Barmet proudly remarks, “It’s more of everything but uses 50 percent lesser resources.”
Lake Lucerne isn’t crumbling under the weight of ecological damage, but Switzerland aims to protect its natural resources well ahead of time, leaving nothing to chance. With this intention, Switzerland is also actively investing in clean hydro power. We chug along a train originally used to transport materials to the hydro power station at Grimselwelt, now used as a passenger locomotive. Located at the eastern edge of the Bernese Oberland, we see firsthand how electricity is generated for nearly a million households.
The historic Grand Hotel Giessbach
From the red metallic balcony of my room, the roaring Giessbach Waterfall, falling 1,640 feet into Lake Brienz, felt almost an arm’s length away. I sat in silence watching nature’s spectacle in my little private cocoon. The Grand Hotel Giessbach’s location is hard to beat, wedged between Lake Brienz and the Giessbach Waterfall up on a mountain. In a country combed through by Bollywood location scouts, I wondered how this beauty was missed.
Even arriving here had ample drama: we cut across the icy Lake Brienz on a boat and took a funicular – the oldest in Europe – to the hotel. One of Europe’s last remaining historic hotels, Giessbach once faced a precarious future, but luckily, it stands to tell its remarkable tale.
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Lake Brienz – a piece of Switzerland’s precious natural history
From viewing Lake Brienz from afar, we glide over it on kayaks. As we followed our guide, Andrés de la Torre, deeper into the lake, he pointed to the magic around us – “Millions of years ago this was a glacier. This is the closest one can come to something so old, so reach out and touch it.” My arms hurt from the rowing and my body felt the physical strain, yet I was immersed in calm and quiet. We go through much of life without waking up to the wonder around us and these experiences in Switzerland had coaxed me to slow down and wake up to the life force around me. On my fourth visit to the country, the usual suspects of snow, chocolate or cheese didn’t feature in bold. Instead, I came back with memories shaped by water and I know I will savour these for a lifetime.
Planning a summer holiday in Switzerland
Summer season in Switzerland
To experience the magic of summer in Switzerland, the best time to plan a trip is between June and mid-September. During the summer months, days are longer, giving you ample time to enjoy numerous outdoor activities. June and mid-September see the lowest crowds as they bookend the peak summer season.
Things to pack for a summer trip
Sturdy and comfortable walking shoes are a must, even better if you can hike in them. The sun tends to be harsh, so carry a cap or hat to protect yourself. To enjoy water-based activities, carry appropriate swimwear.
Things to do in Switzerland in the summer
The country is a surprising hotbed of adventure activities and the summer months are a great time to try these out. Hiking, biking, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, wild swimming, and paragliding are popular options. Explore our guide to incredible hiking trails around the world.
Best lakes and beaches to visit in Switzerland in summer
A landlocked country, Switzerland boasts numerous lakes with sandy shores, perfect to get your dose of sun and sand. Some of the popular ones include Lucerne Lido ni Lucerne, Eaux-Vives Beach in Geneva, Lido in Ascona, and Lido di Lugano.
Can I visit the Swiss Alps in the summer?
Yes, the mountains are a delight to explore in the summer with glacial lakes, ample trekking opportunities, adventure sports options and snow on the higher reaches. And a meticulous transport network ensures they are accessible to all.
What are the best stay options in Switzerland in summer?
There’s an entire gamut of budget to luxury stay options in Switzerland. Bed and breakfast stays and self-serviced apartments are also popular options.
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(Feature Image Credit: kuhnmi, CC0 1.0 UNIVERSAL Deed, via Wikimedia Commons)
Related: 15 Beautiful Places To Visit In Switzerland
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
Question: What are the visa requirements for Switzerland?
Answer: Switzerland is part of the Schengen network, so Indian passport holders require a valid Schengen visa to enter the country. Some countries maybe exempt from this rule. To find out more check the official website.
Question: What are must-try Swiss dishes?
Answer: These are some Swiss favourites that you must try:
– Fondue: A dish of melted cheese served with crusty cubes of bread.
– Raclette: Rectangular slices of cheese are melted in a special dish and served with potatoes, gherkins and cuts of meat.
– Rösti: A pancake made of grated cooked potatoes and served with toppings of your choice.
– Birchermüesli: A delicious breakfast dish made with oats, grated apple, nuts, yoghurt or milk.