Temperature in September: 27°C high; 15°C low
Season: autumn
Travel time from UK: 3 hours
Time difference: BST+1
It might not quite be the “new Croatia” just yet, but that’s part of the appeal — this Balkan gem has so far managed to remain largely off-radar. There’s always some hardy adventurer ready to be first, though; in the unspoiled Albanian Alps, Brooklyn native Catherine and her Albanian partner run five-room farmhouse Hotel Rilindja, a cosy oasis amid peaks and meadows, where evenings bring feasts of spit-roasted whole goat and fresh reservoir trout. Or escape to the Albanian Riviera for glorious golden sands and clear, cobalt water lapping craggy coves. In summer, the beaches are packed with fugitives from Tirana — but come September they’re back at work, while the climate stays Mediterranean and the Adriatic keeps warm. Albania is one of the poorest countries in Europe, and only small pockets of it are benefitting from tourism: namely, the Riviera, and even then, it’s mostly in the form of day trips from cruise ships. Heading into the mountains brings you up close to more traditional, rural communities and puts your money where it matters most. While independent travel can still be tricky here, Responsible Travel offers walking, cycling, food and wine and cultural itineraries that don’t just focus on the coast.
Where to stay: In Tirana, book a room at Agroturizëm Gjepali, a pre-WWII farm turned guesthouse. In Permet, meanwhile, Villa Permet is a restored 19th-century mansion.