“Take me to the Amazon,” I proclaimed – and on we went, cutting through blankets of buttery lilies in our shallow boat; a traditional čun (pronounced chune), shaped like a sword, ideal for skimming reeds and shallow translucent waters. Before us was a wide blue jaw of liquid without a horizon, bordered entirely by land. Triangular mounds of forest-decorated mountains faded into the distance, into deeper shades of steely blue, layered like cake. As we glided along, pygmy cormorants began to glide with us – and for a moment, as surface reflected sky, it gave the impression we were flying too.
You don’t come to Karuč to see artefacts or wander for souvenirs, but to float in stillness and seclusion – a true break from the hubbub of the wider world; to jump into teal waters under teal skies; to sample fresh fish and sit, wet-haired, looking out over a natural landscape undisturbed.
Montenegro prides itself on having a laidback attitude, and nowhere is it easier to surrender to it than here. Make for Karuč, find a good view, good food and plenty of time, and the real world can start to feel an awfully long way away.
Essentials
EasyJet flies from Manchester and London to Tivat from £80 return. Various guesthouses and homestays are available from around £20 per night.
Alternatively, Apartmani Karučki krš (00 382 69 844 123) has doubles from £48 per night, and also offers two-hour Taxi-Boat tours from £50 per person.
The best time to visit is from May and October, when temperatures hover between 25 and 40C, you can watch birds migrating, and local speciality fish is abundant.