Monday, September 16, 2024

This Hip Eastern European City Is One of the Best Places to Travel This Year

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Poland’s capital city, Warsaw, is experiencing a resurgence.

This Eastern European metropolis is no longer merely a stopover en route to Kraków with its captivating charm or to destinations north for a Tri-City immersion led by the port city of Gdańsk. These days, Warsaw is taking the spotlight. In contrast to my frequent childhood trips when we’d pay a quick visit to my great aunt before continuing the long journey south to Sanok, Warsaw now calls my attention, and for good reason. This now modern city founded in the 13th century, whose historic center was left almost entirely to ruin during World War II, is singing a more progressive tune, far from the polonaise.

This energy-fueled city is on the hot list. Prepare to be dazzled from above when the soon-to-open Varso Tower — Warsaw’s highest viewing terrace will proudly dot the skyline while innovative food halls define the coolest neighborhoods. The latest addresses to bed down in 2024 will soon include PURO in the Śródmieście district and Flaner Hotel in the heart of the city set on Krakowskie Przedmieście. Buzzy new restaurants helmed by top Polish chefs offer much more than traditional pierogi, with Michelin-starred NUTA and Rozbrat 20 headlining the culinary scene. This year also marks the 10th anniversary of the renowned POLIN Museum, a testament to the enduring legacy of Polish/Jewish history and heritage. In art news, the Museum of Modern Art is opening its doors in October.

Need further convincing? Warsaw was voted one of the 50 Best Places to Travel in 2024.

Top 5 Can’t Miss

  • Explore the cobblestone-clad Old Town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980, and marvel at masterpieces by Rembrandt and Canaletto decorating The Royal Castle dating back to the 14th century. 
  • Indulge in old-world elegance over tea and pastries at Lourse Warsawa patisserie, founded in 1821 and housed within a neo-renaissance palace turned hotel Raffles Europejski Warsaw
  • Dive into the local fashion scene, feast on food and drinks from around the world, and get your beauty glow on, all within the buzzing post-industrial former power plant Elektownia Powiśle
  • Splurge on a tasting menu at NUTA, the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Warsaw, helmed by Puglia-born Chef Andrea Camastra, whose passion for Polish and Asian cuisine is reflected in every perfectly plated dish.
  • Stroll the manicured gardens of Royal Łazienki Park composed of the 18th-century Royal Garden, the 19th-century Romantic Garden, and the 20th-century Modernist Garden, and become transfixed by the classical music of renowned Polish composer Fryderyk Chopin during the Chopin Concerts from May to September.

Best Hotels

Courtesy of Hotel Verte


Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Boasting the most extensive private art collection in the country, the legendary 19th-century Raffles Europejski Warsaw was reborn in 2018 with five stars and 106 rooms and suites. Tuck into the subterranean spa adorned with a 1960s mosaic by artist Krystyna Kozłowska before a nightcap of Singapore-inspired cocktails at the swanky Long Bar.

Nobu Hotel Warsaw

Bed down and dine Japanese-style at Nobu Hotel Warsaw, the first of this iconic group’s hotels to open in Eastern Europe. You might mistake Warsaw for New York when peeking through the floor-to-ceiling windows onto thrilling skyline views from the 117 rooms reflecting Nobu’s ethos of ‘luxury through simplicity.’

Hotel Verte Warsaw Marriott Autograph Collection

It’s now possible to sleep in a Baroque palace just steps from Warsaw’s Old Town thanks to Hotel Verte Warsaw Marriott Autograph Collection composing the Branicki and Szaniawski palaces. Each of the 94 playful bedrooms highlights 18th-century features, while Chef Maciej Majewski keeps patrons entertained and well-nourished at KUK’s ‘neo-bistro.’

Hotel Warszawa

Warsaw’s first skyscraper, dating back to 1931, was reborn as one of the city’s most distinguished hotels in 2018. Every one of the 142 voluminous rooms at Hotel Warszawa is tastefully outfitted in wood and marble. After a dip in the spa’s heated pool, head to rooftop restaurant Szóstka for stellar views of Warsaw with a side of signature dishes by chef Dariusz Baranski.

Hotel Bristol, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Warsaw

Neighboring the Presidential Palace, this landmark hotel, built in 1901 and one of the few buildings to survive World War II, perfectly captures the neo-Renaissance elegance of a former Warsaw. Its 206 bedrooms and Art Deco-inspired interiors — home to legendary Café Bristol — have welcomed illustrious figures like Marlene Dietrich, Pablo Picasso, President John F. Kennedy, Margaret Thatcher, and Sophia Loren.

Best Things to Do

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Take a history lesson.

Become better acquainted with Polish personalities of the past within one of its compelling museums. Begin your history lesson at the POLIN Museum set on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto. Translated in Hebrew to “Poland” or “rest here,” this is where you’ll learn the sobering story of the Polish Jews. The Warsaw Rising Museum illustrates the plight of the Polish underground and the 63-day-long resistance against the German occupation. Another set of extraordinary tales is told at the Museum of Warsaw through an impressive collection of objects and photographs. Polish masters share the four branches of The National Museum in Warsaw with a global cast at one of the oldest and greatest museums in Poland.

Tour the Old Town.

A wander through the narrow streets lined with brightly-hued tenement houses leading to the Old Town Market Square — once resided in by Warsaw’s who’s who and the hub of public life — brings to mind a city of storybooks. The Warsaw Mermaid sits proudly in the center of this UNESCO World Heritage site, serving as the city’s emblem and guardian. Just outside The Royal Castle, Sigismund’s Column honors Polish King Sigismund III Vasa, who moved the capital from Kraków to Warsaw in 1596. Bookworms will enjoy a foray at the Old Town’s Literature Museum for a date with Adam Mickiewicz, Poland’s most noble writer and poet. While most of the restaurants filling the Old Town are not worth a social media share, stop by the historic haunt U Fukiera led by famed chef Magda Gessler for an authentic taste of Polish home cooking.

Dine at historic food halls.

Taste your way around this emerging culinary capital through its fashionable food halls. While a 100-year-old powerplant turned shopping center Elektrownia Powiśle might win for its cosmopolitan dining options and electric energy, Hala Koszykji can whet almost any appetite. Among the ethnic eats, Matheusz Gessler’s Warszawski Sen stands out for modern Polish gastronomy. What began as a 19th-century malthouse, Browary Warszawskie has evolved into a culture-filled urban space with dining and (beer) drinking options galore. Polish soccer star Robert Lewandowski recently joined the team by opening restaurant and sports bar NINE’S. The most family-friendly food hall serving up entertainment for all ages alongside its culinary options, 200-year-old Fabryka Norblina was born as a metal plating factory.

Shop like the locals.

Skip the stylish boulevards of Milan and Paris for a fix of Polish fashion, or moda, as local Monika Kandefer calls it. Brand manager of Ambelier artisanal home décor and jewelry label, Kandefer reveals, “The best Polish designers and local brands can be found along Mokotowska Street and Koszykowa Street.” Women’s ready-to-wear brands to keep an eye on include Le Petit Trou, The Odder Side, 303 Avenue, and LeBrand. Hand-crafted bags by Mandel make it difficult to choose only one torba. Head over to industrial-chic shopping center Mysia 3. and add a pair of timeless locally-designed shoes by Balagan to your new Warsaw-inspired wardrobe.

Best Restaurants

Courtesy of Muzealna


Rozbrat 20

Book a seat in direct view of Chef Bartosz Szymczak’s kitchen, and you’ll understand why Rozbrat 20 is Warsaw’s second restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star just this year. The menu at this sleek address specializes in modern Polish cuisine with a Franco-British twist. Save your appetite for smoked eel, foie gras, and wagyu dumplings.

Alewino

It begins with wine at Alewino — where the cellar is stocked with more than 250 international bottles — and ends with an elevated dining experience. Cleverly combining a wine bar with a well-priced restaurant where seasonal plates can be shared has won this clandestine favorite a Michelin Bib Gourmand distinction.

Bez Gwiazdek

Regional dining leads the way at Bez Gwiazdek, translated to “without stars.” Every month, the menu at this cozy bistro takes inspiration from one of Poland’s 16 regions. Modernized traditional recipes are masterfully reinterpreted by Chef Robert Trzópek and paired with biodynamic wines from small producers.

Muzealna

You can almost skip visiting the National Museum in Warsaw when dining at Muzealna restaurant, housed in the museum’s underground level. Both interiors and the cuisine are led by nostalgia, with young Polish artists and chef Przemysław Suska creatively paying respect to a Poland of the past.

hub.praga

It’s worth a detour to Warsaw’s bohemian district of Praga for a globally-inspired menu at hub.praga, helmed by award-winning chef Witek Iwański. His balance between plant-based cuisine and animal-based products is singular. The chef’s table inside the kitchen proves the best seat in this 100-year-old tenement house.

Best Time to Visit

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Spring and summer in Warsaw are spectacular. The city is most vibrant from April to September, with parks showing off their seasonal shades of green while locals gather at outdoor cafes and cultural events. Moderate temperatures are the norm, with rare heatwaves and occasional rain, making child-friendly park outings a popular pastime.

If you can brave the cold, Christmas time, with its traditional Polish festivities, is a unique experience. The Old Town comes to life in dazzling lights from the Royal Route to Castle Square, culminating in a thrilling holiday market surrounding a 29-foot-tall Christmas tree. Just keep in mind that the winter sun sets early.

How to Get There

Named for the revered Polish pianist, Warsaw Chopin Airport is only 6 miles from the city center. A taxi ride at around should take only 20 minutes, depending on traffic. Buses and trains offering convenient drop-off points are another reliable option. Jakdojade journey planner outlines the best route.

Neighborhoods to Visit

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Praga

Nominated as Warsaw’s most hipster neighborhood in 2019, Praga has managed to stay cool without losing its edge. From street art murals to the illuminating Neon Museum, the pre-war vibe here is omnipresent with hundreds of Cold War era neon signs and electro-graphic artifacts. Housed in one of the city’s oldest residential buildings, it’s the Praga Museum of Warsaw that best praises and preserves the neighborhood’s history. A fan of Praga who visits Warsaw often, Kraków local and founder of Antique Apartments, Matylda Gawor hints, “Watch this neighborhood for the future.”

Żoliborz

“Very peaceful and known for its architecture, green spaces, and cultural life, it feels like a city within the city,” Warsaw resident Lucas Pollier boasts of his Żoliborz neighborhood. Local Park Kępa Potocka sets the mood for cycling and jogging along the Vistula River. Another fan of the district, Paweł Wybanski, recommends tasting the traditional jagodzianki or wild blueberry buns at Cała w Mące, where baker and bread enthusiast Monika Walecka sets a high standard for all her baked delicacies.

Powiśle

Bordering the Vistula River, as the name suggests, Powiśle is an up-and-coming neighborhood dotted with art galleries and vintage stores. “It has recently become one of the most affluent areas, with a lot of modern housing and a very active food scene,” shares Pollier, who opened his second Smashny Burger (a mashup of smaczny, meaning ‘delicious,’ and smash) within the popular food hall Elektownia Powiśle. The district is also home to Copernicus Science Center. Its planetarium, burgeoning roof garden, and over 400 interactive exhibits make it much more than a science museum.

How to Get Around

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Warsaw is a walking city, and it’s best to traverse the eclectic neighborhoods on foot. It’s equally easy to explore using public transport via one of the 200 bus routes or a tram whose 20 routes crisscross the city. The underground Metro has two lines, and each station is cleverly outfitted with a toilet and an elevator. Most central locations can be reached within 15 minutes. Ticket machines at all metro and train stations can be accessed using a card or cash, costing between 3.40 zloty (around 89 cents) and 7 zloty (around $1.80) for a ticket. Ask for travel passes and weekend tickets.

Taxis can be effortlessly hailed in most bustling neighborhoods. Before beginning your journey, just ensure they have reset the meter. ELE TAXI offers an easy-to-use app, and Uber and Bolt are popular options.

There’s also a growth of cycle paths for biking enthusiasts, with a free public bike system in place. A new pedestrian and bicycle bridge spanning the Vistula River at the height of Okrzei and Karowa Streets connects two sides of the city and sets a world record as the longest pedestrian and bicycle bridge of its kind.

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